HPC Fire Linear Electronic Ignition Gas Fire Pit Kit with Rectangular Interlink Pan and Torpedo Burner

Gas Supply
For a strong, steady flame, your fire pit needs the right gas volume and pressure at the burner. Long runs and small pipe can reduce flow, so many installs need a dedicated line sized for the fire pit’s BTU demand (often 1″+ on larger builds). 

Have a certified gas plumber confirm line sizing and verify pressure at the fire pit. Avoid corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) when possible, since it can cause line noise and whistling.

Typical operating pressures:

• Natural Gas: 7 inches of water column (7" W.C. ≈ 0.25 PSI)
• Propane: 11 inches of water column (11" W.C. ≈ 0.4 PSI)

Portable Propane Tanks
A 20 lb (5 gal) “BBQ” propane tank is best for burners around 90,000 BTUs or less. Larger burners can cause the tank to lock out or freeze up. 

Contact our product specialists and we’ll help you build the right kit, including everything needed from the burner to the tank.

Fire Pit Design
Getting the structure right is just as important as choosing the kit. Keep the enclosure non-combustible and built with outdoor-rated materials (pavers, stone, concrete, metal studs with cement board, etc.). Plan for two things up front: water has to get out, and the fire pit has to breathe.

Ventilation: Helps prevent moisture buildup and keeps gas from accumulating inside.

Drainage: Pans allow water to pass through, so the enclosure needs a path to drain inside (weep paths, gravel bed, or a dedicated drain).

Service Access: Don’t seal the pan in or backfill the interior.

Certifications and Local Codes
Not all kits are certified, and requirements vary by location. High BTU match-lit setups can be powerful and cost-effective, but they’re typically not certified. Before you build, check with your inspector or local authority on certification requirements, flame-sensing features, shutoff access, and clearances.

For commercial or shared spaces, we recommend certified, flame-sensing systems with automatic shutoff (most commonly electronic ignition paired with a timer and emergency stop button). All gas and electrical work must comply with applicable codes and standards. Always use a qualified installer and confirm requirements with your local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ).

Design Help from Our Fire Pit Experts
Not sure where to start, or just want confirmation before you order? Call, chat, or email our team today—we’ll help make sure your project goes smoothly so you can skip to the good part: kicking back by the fire.

Sizing Your Burner Kit
Start with the interior opening of the fire pit. The opening determines the burner and pan size. 

Pan/Plate: Should match the opening or be around 1” smaller for fit. 

Burner: Burners are sized to the pan and typically leave 3-6” of space around the edges for proper clearance. This prevents charring of the inside edges. 

Pan Supports: When using flat pans or plates, mount the support ledge about 3–6″ below the top opening.

Choosing a Pan
Drop-in pans are the quickest install, but they need a near-exact fit and the rim remains visible after installation (typically adding about 1″–1½″ around the edges). Flat pans or plates give the cleanest look since no rim is exposed, but they require underside support.

When using flat pans:

• Avoid interior capstone/coping overhangs that prevent brackets from supporting the pan.
• Don’t “sandwich” the pan between rows of block, be able to lift it “up and out” for future maintenance. 

If standard sizes don’t fit, contact us—most styles can be made custom.

Ignition Types

Match-Light: Simplest and easiest to maintain. Turn the key valve and light by hand. Some high-BTU configurations are non-certified, so confirm local requirements.

Push-Button Spark: Simple BBQ style sparker upgrade. Not recommended for propane or higher-BTU kits where delayed ignition can allow gas to pool.

Flame-Sensing Spark: Battery-powered sparker lights a pilot. The pilot lights the main burner and shuts gas off automatically if the flame goes out.

Electronic Ignition: Most automated option. Flame-sensing with automatic re-lighting. Requires power at the fire pit and can pair with switches, timers, e-stops, remotes, or automation systems.

Additional Components & Accessories

Installation Collars: Create a support ledge for the pan (often 3-5” below the opening). Options include screw-in “L” brackets or no-drill collars that sit between block courses.

Flange Extensions: Secures the key valve into the fire pit wall. Plastic is easiest to cut and thread, and pairs well with 8” or 12” keys. One extension can reach through a 9” thick wall/block. 

Media: Must be fire rated. Drilled-port burners need a light layer covering the burner, while jet/nozzle burners should be flush with the tips. If using fire glass with propane or nozzle burners, it must be ¾” size. Plan for 2–3” glass depth or 3–4” lava rock (follow your kit manual).

Covers & Wind Guards: Covers keep water/debris out (especially with electronic ignition). Wind guards keep flames upright, reduce wall charring, and reduce heat transfer to nearby objects (like beverages).